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Oil pump dive pinion removal-T160

Home Forums TR3OC Members Forum Oil pump dive pinion removal-T160

This topic contains 8 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by Ralph Wilhelm Ralph Wilhelm 3 weeks, 6 days ago.

  • Author
    Posts
  • #9524

    Peter Hughes
    Participant

    Hi folks,

    Does anyone have any handy hints on removing the 70-7248 oil pump driving gear (see pic) from the crank? Mine seems to be firmly stuck on the crank splines. Reading around this, I can’t see any reference to, or experience of, using a puller to get it off.

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  • #9533

    Peter Gill
    Participant

    Hi Peter,

    My experience was similar.

    I managed to use a 3 armed puller and warmed up the pinion with a heat gun.

    Once it starts to move it get much easier to pull off.

    Take care with any shims between the pinion and the primary drive sprocket, you’ll need them to get the alignment correct when you rebuild

    • #9578

      Peter Hughes
      Participant

      Thanks Peter,

      It came off (cold) but was very tight all the way up the splines, much more so than I expected. I’d already taken the shims off with the primary sprocket, so that bit should be OK.

      I’m stripping the engine to see about a relief drilling in the DS crankcase to stop oil from working up through the tacho drive and exiting out of the cable, understand it’s a common problem on early T160s. If you could point me to any articles about how to do this, I’d be eternally grateful.

       

      • #9583

        Francis Marshall
        Participant

        Peter, it would have been simpler to carry out the mod described in Service Bulletin 11/75 where an O ring is added to the unit.

        The additional breather hole was simply a diagonal 1/8″ hole ending at the left Hand end of the cam bush. I might be able to make a Picture of this if someone else doesn’t come to the rescue …

  • #9621

    Peter Hughes
    Participant

    Thanks Francis, I bodged the “O” ring method IAW 11/75 but must confess I did not put the washer in front, nor did I machine out the 71-4612 securing bolt (as it seems you have to do from the illustration).

    I also wanted to take the DS crankcase off to try and solve a persistent oil leak around the base of the block. My current working hypothesis is that this has to do with a very slow oil drain from the DS valve pocket (over 1 minute dwell) and oil is building-up in the little well there, eventually wetting-out paper gaskets and weeping past copper ones. The end nuts on a Nova block are smaller than the standard  standard 12-point 21-0692 base nut and have poor access, so it isn’t possible to get the same torque on them.

    Another reason for DS crankcase removal is to access and remove what remains of a sheared bolt that passes through the primary inner case (parts book pp40-41, Pos 12, 21-1819).

    Pic of the crankcase sans bottom drilling attached. So if anyone does have a pic of the drilling, would be gratefully received, otherwise I’ll follow your advice.

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  • #9636

    Francis Marshall
    Participant

    Peter,

    I feel obliged to provide you with Pictures. The fist one is with a 15/64″ drill in the drilling. This is loose so it would be 1/4″ but my drill didn’t slip in so I used the other one. It is drilled from inside the camshaft bearing, obviously. I don’t think  the exact angle is critical. Any questions on this?Cam-reliefDrilling03Cam.reliefDrilling04

  • #9637
    Ralph Wilhelm
    Ralph Wilhelm
    Participant

    What’s the reason for this hole?

    • #9640

      Francis Marshall
      Participant

      Ralph,

      it is to drain oil out of the end of the exhaust camshaft which prevents the oil escaping through the Tacho drive. It was added during production of the T160 which is why Peter doesn’t have it on his.

  • #9641
    Ralph Wilhelm
    Ralph Wilhelm
    Participant

    Danke Francis,

    I just had a look at my unnumbered spare cases. the hole is there too 🙂

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