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Amal conical air filters/ re- routing of crankcase breather to rear mudguard

Home Forums TR3OC Members Forum Amal conical air filters/ re- routing of crankcase breather to rear mudguard

This topic contains 6 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by  nigel wheatley 5 months, 2 weeks ago.

  • Author
  • #7642
    Pete Esser
    Pete Esser

    I’m at the point of refitting the Amals to my T160 and just spotted the spin on conical filters offered by Amal for the 600 Series carbs – has anyone tried these out and if so, how did they get on with them.

    If I decide not to use the standard filter box, would I need to make up a small support bracket to better support and hold the carbs in place, as I do not have confidence that the rubber connecting hoses and jubilee clips for the inlets can do this on their own without slipping/working their way off with the vibration. Presumably I will need to re-jet and change the needle/cutaways for this change, so if anyone has a recommendation as a starting point it would be appreciated ? I intend to re-route the breather pipe that goes into the filter box by blanking off the existing breather with a small cylindrical washable gauze filter, drilling the small side plate and fitting an offset to connect the breather pipe to, which I want to route along the rear mudguard, like the T140. I have seen this done on a couple of other  Tridents with stainless braided pipe and what looked like a purpose made alloy 90 degree offset breather outlet,  secured by two screws into the small plate – can anyone tell me where I can find one of these fittings as I have not had much success finding one as yet? Maybe they are from an aircraft or marine application….

  • #7643
    dave bloor
    dave bloor

    Amal conical air filters/re- routing of crankcase breather to rear mudguard

    You can use the T12O/140 angled connector that sits under the L/H carb on the inside of the primary chaincase

  • #7647
    David Lord
    David Lord

    Pete, I think the original airbox is really quite good.  The bike is quieter and it makes little performance difference if you remove it.  It’s disadvantage is being awkward to remove when you want to make carb adjustments.  I changed mine to a “datebox” air filter and although it made tuning much easier, it just increased noise and made no difference to performance.  And then the breather routing needed modification and support was needed for the filter……..   In the end I concluded it wasn’t worth the effort and that leaving it stock worked best overall.


    • #7648

      nigel wheatley

      to follow on from what david says about the original airbox, if you do re-fit that then you can improve air-flow by cutting out the internal plate which otherwise blanks off part of the intake. I haven’t got any photos but if you look inside the airbox you will see what i mean – there was an article in a recent Triple Echo on that very subject. If you want to de-restrict a T160 then replace silencers with commando style peashooters


  • #7677
    Pete Esser
    Pete Esser

    Thanks for the very helpful comments gentlemen. I have since found a T120 NOS breather outlet and clips for the rear mudguard which I still want to fit and I already have a set of Commando pipes.  One of the reasons I wanted to change the filter box is how fiddly it is to remove and refit, especially when one has a bit of rheumatism in the thumb joints. I was planning to keep it with the bike in case a subsequent owner might want to go back to the standard setup.  However, upon reflection, if I cut out the inner plate on the standard box as suggested, is there a K&N/similar filter that would fit? Which issue number of Triple Echo am I looking for?

    • #7698

      nigel wheatley

      cutting the inner plate in the T160 airbox does not affect the Air Filter fitting, the standard T160 filter or the washable K&N version both fit into the standard airbox with or without mods

  • #7680
    Pete Esser
    Pete Esser

    Found it – issue 227 April/May 17.

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