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Nov 24 @ 12:00 pm – 3:00 pm
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Swinging arm removal

Home Forums TR3OC Members Forum Swinging arm removal

This topic contains 4 replies, has 2 voices, and was last updated by  Pete Esser 5 months, 1 week ago.

  • Author
  • #6143

    Pete Esser

    I’m having some trouble removing the swinging arm pivot bolt on my T160 as the nut is seized. If I use a blow torch, will I need to replace the pivot nut and bolt with new ones? There is a bit of side play; do I need to achieve zero side play with shims or is a bit of play normal? Lastly, is a special drift required for removal and fitting of the bushes or can I improvise with something else? Any advice appreciated. Pete

  • #6175

    Pete Esser

    I got it off on the end; after trying heat, shock force and WD40 the nut would not budge, so I had to split it off with a small cold chisel. The bobbins were badly corroded and bearing collars worn, so everything should feel tighter when rebuilt. Now having a similar problem with headstock bearing removal, can’t get the inner collars out, which are badly scored (the bottom race was rusty, devoid of grease and seized onto the stem, but I managed to get it off eventually. Any suggestions for inner collar removal?

  • #6201

    Gerard Gallwey

    A method I once used on a Suzuki of removing a bearing inner collar at the headstock, is to weld piece of metal on to the collar so that there is a larger area to enable a drift to make contact with the collar. The drift which has to be longer than the headstock tube is put in from the other end of the headstock. The collar is evenly driven out by moving the end of drift between hammer hits, to different places on the welded in piece of metal.
    On a Yamaha with the same problem, I drilled three or four evenly positioned holes through the frame so that a 1/8″ parallel pin punch could be used to drive out the collar. The holes were drilled from the outside of the headstock in the direction of the bearing collar at an acute angle to the headstock. Looking at a the fairing mounting lugs on a T160 headstock, there appears to be just enough room for two holes on both sides of the headstock. On the Yamaha I just filled the drillings with instant gasket paste so that they could be used the next time.

  • #6231

    Pete Esser

    Thanks for the suggestion, I got the bearing cups out with a spring steel splayed drift – you insert from the end you want to remove, pull the sprung ends just past the bearing cup lip and they open out tight against the inside of the headstock, giving contact all the way around the top of the bearing cup; half a dozen blows and out came the cups. My next problem is the swinging arm bushes – very tight and won’t budge. I think I will have to resort to careful use of a saw, some heat and a lot of patience and make a tool up to press the new bushes into place.

  • #7068

    Pete Esser

    I was unable to knock the swinging arm bushes out, they just would not budge. After getting the frame and other parts back back from the powder coater, I ended up using a hacksaw blade and very carefully cut through each bush; with a few light taps both came out right away. Replacing the new bushes was much easier; I put them in the freezer for a couple of hours and used a kettle of boiling water on the swinging arm head and with a little light oil they tapped into place easily. Now re-fitted with new bobbins and pivot bolt, the swinging arm has zero side play.

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