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Replacing outer chaincase needle roller bearing

Home Forums TR3OC Members Forum Replacing outer chaincase needle roller bearing

This topic contains 10 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by  Peter Barrass 1 week, 2 days ago.

  • Author
    Posts
  • #7051

    John Allaway
    Participant

    There is nothing in the genuine Triumph manual about repmoving and replacing the steel thrust washer and large diameter needle roller bearing in the outer chaincase. My T150V has a good thrust washer, but the needle roller bearing is buggered (rust).  It looks as if the thrust washer is retined by peening-over of the aluminium housing – if so, what is one supposed to do to get it out? Grind or chisel the aluminium away?

     

    Once that’s done, how does one go about getting the needle roller bearing out? It is fitted in a blind housing, so the only way(s) to remove would seem to be (a) heat the casing up and hope it will drop out or (b) weld something across it to pull on?

     

    The T150 manual is rubbish compared to the T160 manual I used to have – that gave clear information on everything I wanted to know about. This one covers all models from the first T150 up to 1973/4, and misses some of the updates (eg: primary chain tensioner). Very disappointing, having paid £20 for it!

  • #7052
    David Lord
    David Lord
    Keymaster

    I believe Triples Unlimited can do a repair job in that area (see the Suppliers section), otherwise ask P&M or Richard Darby if they can do it?

  • #7053

    Martin Rawson
    Participant

    You can do this repair at home.

    You have to knock out the thrust washer first, in doing so it chips off the peened over areas of the housing(this is unavoidable). Then drift out the needle bearing and replace. Fit thrust washer with a little adhesive back into housing and clamp up with big washers and a through nut & bolt. You could omit the adhesive and when clamped up peen over at three points . I’ve had some siuccess with this but your choice, I’ve seen cases buchered  by over zealous p.o’s. and found thrust washers loose having been replaced and not glued.

    Note the thrust washer is reversable if any doubt of condition.

     

     

     

    • #7064

      John Allaway
      Participant

      Thanks, but having looked at it again I can’t see any way of drifting out the bearing (or knocking out the thrust washer), as there is no way of getting behind either of them. The outer end of the housing has an opening of smaller diameter than the bearing, so the fit is effectively blind.

      Unless there is a ‘proper’ method, I’ll have to try grinding the peened aluminium away with a Dremel, then trying heat and hoping the bearing will fall out if I slap the case down on a wooden surface.  If that fails I’ll try getting a bolt welded across it to pull on.

      But if anyone has any other tricks for this, I’ll be very glad to hear about them!

      • #7067
        iain strong
        iain strong
        Moderator

        Alan the thrust bearing should only be peened in 3 places. so if you can remove the peened areas the thrust bearing can then be levered out. when this is done apply a good heat to the case (ie put it in a hot oven for 10-15mins then tap the acse on some wood blocks and the needle roller bearing should fall out. I always pop the new one in whilst the case is hot. then fit the thrust bearing and re-peen with the remaining metal left in the case.

        That is the Theory at least

  • #7069

    John Allaway
    Participant

    Thanks Iain, I have removed the thrust washer by carefully carving away at one of the three peened sections, which enabled me to get a tiny screwdriver in to encourage it to move in tat direction (away from the other two peened sections, which have remained undamaged). So I should get away with only peening at one spot when I reassemble.

    However, I;m having trouble shifting the bearing. I’ve tried heat and gravity/shock treatment, to no avail.  The bearing is too insubstantial to weld anything across. I might drill 3 small holes through from the outer face of the housing, so that I can tap the bearing with a pin punch.

     

    The only other option I can think of is to bash one side of the bearing inwards with great care not to touch the housing, so that it collapses and can be gripped with mole grips or similar. But that would be a last resort.

     

  • #7072

    Peter Barrass
    Participant

    John

    I have a home made tool based on standard bearing puller (expanding taper with circumferencial blade) design that could assist, contact me and I will explain 07970 642493

    peter

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  • #7074

    Peter Barrass
    Participant

    Who will be the first to identify the threaded part used?

    • #7076

      John Allaway
      Participant

      I like your design Peter – I might have a go at making up something similar. Is that a fork stanchion bottom screw welded to the tube?

  • #7075
    Don Gray
    Don Gray
    Participant

    A collet ? Wot do I win!!!

    • #7077

      Peter Barrass
      Participant

      Yes, off the earlier forks, Don will have to share the winnings as both posted the same time?

      0÷2=

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